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200 years in Stone: A journey through Oranjestad's historic buildings – Part 2

We got lost in the history of Wilhelminastraat, and let's be honest, City Hall totally stole the show.

But Oranjestad has even more stories to whisper in our ears and secrets waiting to be unearthed. Today, we're getting up close and personal with the city's mighty past.

Buckle up because we're heading straight to Fort Zoutman, a Dutch sentry that's guarded these shores for centuries. Imagine the cannons roaring, the salty breeze whipping through your hair, and pirates lurking just beyond the horizon! Who knows, maybe we'll even stumble upon a hidden treasure map tucked away in some dusty corner!

But before diving headfirst into pirate fantasies, another marvel is waiting for us – the Willem III tower. This towering giant offers panoramic views unlike any other. Think you can spot the hidden coves where those mischievous pirates might have stashed their loot?

Get ready to explore, imagine, and maybe even discover a hidden piece of Oranjestad's fascinating history! Let's see where this adventure takes us today...


Willem III Tower: a protector of time

The Willem III Tower, a foundation of Oranjestad’s history, stands on the lookout over Plaza Padu.

Built in 1868 and named after King Willem III of the Netherlands, this iconic landmark has served multiple purposes throughout its past.

Originally constructed as a lighthouse, the Willem III Tower guided ships with its powerful kerosene lamp for nearly a century. However, with the advancement of maritime technology, the light eventually extinguished in 1963.

However, the tower's purpose remained strong. It donned a new role as a public clock tower, ensuring that Oranjestad's residents remained punctual. Even today, the clock face on the tower serves as a reminder of its timekeeping duties.

 

Fort Zoutman: more than brick and mortar, a home for Aruba's history

The Willem III Tower isn't an isolated landmark. It stands proudly beside Fort Zoutman, the oldest remaining building in Oranjestad. Built in 1796 by enslaved people brought over from Curaçao together with the island’s Indigenous population, the fort served as a crucial line of defense against pirates and enemies who threatened the island.

Today, both the Willem III Tower and Fort Zoutman are seamlessly integrated into the Aruba Historical Museum. Stepping inside these historic structures allows visitors to journey through Aruba's rich past. Exhibits showcase the island's cultural evolution, from its indigenous roots to its colonial period and current status as a popular tourist destination.

The Willem III Tower and Fort Zoutman complex isn't just a museum; it's a vibrant hub for cultural events. Every Tuesday evening, the lively Bon Bini Festival takes place here. This celebration welcomes visitors with open arms, offering a taste of Aruban culture through traditional music, dance, and cuisine.

 

A voyage through Aruba's administrative heart

As you step out of the Fort's embrace, a blend of history and modern governance awaits you. Right in front of the fort stands the official office of Aruba's Governor, the representative of the Dutch monarch in Aruba. Just beyond, the imposing structure of Aruba's Parliament House invites you to continue your adventure through Oranjestad’s history, whispering tales of democratic ideals and spirited debates.

 

Unveiling the Secrets of “Bestuurskantoor”

As you journey along L.G. Smith Boulevard, you’ll encounter a remarkable landmark—“Bestuurskantoor,” the seat of Aruba's government.

Its walls echo with the pulse of the nation's administrative heartbeat. The halls of this remarkable building stand as witnesses to the island's pursuit of self-governance.

 

As you gaze upon “Bestuurskantoor,” you're transported back to the tumultuous era of World War II. In 1940, as the world plunged into chaos, Aruba found itself on the frontlines, facing the threat of enemy attacks. A military camp was erected at Paardenbaai, its sprawling grounds encompassing a significant portion of L.G. Smith Boulevard to safeguard its shores.

 

From military camp to administrative hub

The once-bustling military complex underwent a remarkable transformation with the war's end. The buildings, strategically designed for adaptability, were reimagined to serve a new purpose. A significant portion of the site was demolished to make way for a modern shopping center and a towering hotel.

Amidst this transformation, “Bestuurskantoor” emerged as a symbol of Aruba's growing wish for independence. From 1942 to 1943, it served as temporary housing for military and non-commissioned officers. The introduction of the “Eilandenregeling” on March 14, 1951, marked a critical moment in Aruba's journey toward self-governance. To accommodate the expanding government services and their relocation, Governor Kwartsz boldly decided to consolidate all departments along this coastal stretch.

The original design of “Bestuurskantoor” bears the hallmarks of the Department of Public Works, showcasing a style and character tailored to the tropical climate. Long galleries, wooden windows, and strategically positioned openings to catch the breeze are just a few of the design elements that embody this architectural philosophy.

 

A glimpse into the future of governance

As you explore Bestuurskantoor's interesting architecture, imagine encountering Aruba's Prime Minister, eager to greet you and capture a selfie. This building has witnessed countless Aruban leaders' footsteps, each contributing to the nation's remarkable story.

 

“Havenkantoor”: a relic of Aruba's maritime heritage

Just around the corner, at the intersection of LG Smith Boulevard and Schutterstraat, another monumental structure stands tall—the former Havenkantoor, Aruba’s Harbor Office and Customs House. Built in 1940, this architectural gem was designed by the ‘Dienst Openbare Werken’ (DOW) of Curaçao in response to growing maritime traffic.

The need for Havenkantoor arose from the surge in maritime traffic and the subsequent expansion of the port in 1939. Before its construction, customs affairs were handled within the Governor's House, a 19th-century structure that no longer exists.

“Havenkantoor” was erected on land reclaimed from the sea. Initially, the second floor served as a harbor surveillance post, while the customs office, where goods were declared, occupied the ground floor. The building's original character has undergone significant alterations. The construction along the waterfront and the placement of a crane between the building and the sea have severed the once-direct connection between Havenkantoor and the port, leaving it somewhat isolated.

 

Oranjestad’s spiritual heart

As you stroll back to Wilhelminastraat through Schutterstraat, prepare to be captivated by a tale of faith and architectural evolution. Nestled amidst the bustling streets, two Protestant churches stand—each with a story waiting to be discovered.

 

The Grand Dame: Wilhelminastraat #1

As your gaze falls upon the grand dame—the Old Protestant Church—right next to the tower of the New Protestant Church, you are looking at one of the undisputed champions of antiquity in Oranjestad. Built in 1846, its walls whisper secrets of a bygone era. Remarkably, this church rose from the foundations of a former Arends family home, purchased in 1844. Imagine a place of worship seamlessly transitioning from a domestic space.

From humble abode to sacred sanctuary

In its early years, the Old Protestant Church served a dual purpose: a home for the faithful and a haven for prayer. A single bell perched in the rooftop window announced the call to service. However, the allure of a dedicated church grew stronger, prompting plans for a new structure to be built.

To breathe life into this vision, a lime kiln was established near Fort Zoutman, where the stones for the church's construction were fired. Venezuelan wood, a standard import back then, formed the church's skeletal frame. In 1846, under the blessing of Reverend A.J.K. Meyer from Curaçao, the Old Protestant Church officially opened its doors, becoming the center of faith for the burgeoning Protestant community.

Step inside, and let the ambiance transport you back in time. Gleaming copper chandeliers bathe the interior in a warm glow, while the "Twentse knopstoelen" (twenty-button chairs) hint at the church's rich past. There is also the impressive pulpit adorned with a six-panel acoustic canopy. But a true masterpiece awaits – a wooden sculpture depicting the Good Samaritan, crafted by Indonesian artist Djepara, drawing inspiration from Rembrandt's renowned 1650 painting. The Old Protestant Church served the community faithfully until 1950 as a silent witness to countless prayers, sermons, and moments of spiritual connection.

 

A new chapter begins the rise of the new Protestant Church.

Standing proudly alongside its elder sibling is the new Protestant Church. This happened thanks to the evolving needs of the growing community. Built in 1950-1951 under the direction of architect Jan Nagel, this modern structure marked an essential shift in Oranjestad's religious landscape. Interestingly, the site once housed the residence of Dr. Horacio Eulogio Oduber, which later transformed into a "pasanggrahan," a guest house for visiting government officials.

Time, however, took its toll on the church's majestic balconies. But in 1985-1988, a meticulous restoration project breathed new life into the structure. Inspired by the Old Protestant Church's moniker, "de kerk aan de Baay" (the church by the bay), and the island's rich fishing heritage, the restoration incorporated maritime themes. White stone now adorns the pillars and wall behind the pulpit, adding a touch of elegance. The pulpit itself is a breathtaking sight – a representation of the bow of a traditional wooden boat.

Reaching the most historic part of Oranjestad

As you continue your exploration, exit Wilhelminastraat and enter Havenstraat; look for Plaza Daniel Leo on your right.

As you reach this iconic plaza named after a local politician who was a catalyst for the positive development of the tourism industry, you are venturing into the heart of Oranjestad. Even in this area lies a tale of buried treasures and forgotten heroes. Here, amidst the city's vibrant energy, lies a plaza steeped in history, waiting to be explored.

 

Plaza Daniel Leo wasn't always a bustling square. This very spot once housed the Commander's House – the residence of the island's pre-gubernatorial leaders. Built in the early 19th century, this enigmatic structure stood proudly overlooking the bay.

Due to a phenomenon called land reclamation, the beachfront property had to be constructed a bit more inland.

 

Beyond Plaza Daniel Leo

The entire area around Plaza Daniel Leo offers various perfect spots to catch your breath after a day packed with history and intrigue. With vibrant cafes and inviting restaurants, the choice is yours: linger over a refreshing drink and soak in the sights, or grab a delicious bite to fuel your curiosity for day 3 of our adventure.

No matter what you choose, one thing's certain – our next journey brings a whole new chapter to our Oranjestad adventure. If you’d like to continue exploring, you could delve deeper into the heart of the old city on Caya G.F. Betico Croes, formerly known as Nassaustraat, as well as Caya Grandi (Mainstreet). In old Nassaustraat, your eyes will be captivated by a symphony of architectural wonders of a bygone era. Who knows what treasures you'll unearth next?

Stay tuned, adventurer, for the next chapter of our Oranjestad exploration unfolds soon!


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